• 501/508 IRD
• Small, fine point soldering iron (I use RS Cat No.64-2051B)
• Rosin Core Solder (I use RS Cat No.64-013 B .022 Dia.)
• 5 100 Ohm Resisters (RS Cat No.271-1108)
• 2 25 Pin Male LPT Connector (RS Cat No.276-1547B)
• 1 25 Pin Female LPT Connector (RS Cat No.276-1548B)
• 2 25 pins LPT shielded hoods (Optional) (RS Cat No. 276-1536A )
• 18 Inches of Ribbon Cable.
• Magnifying glass (Optional but preferred)
• Razor Blade
• Needle Nose Pliers (optional)
• Phillips Head Screw Driver
• A Dremel tool or equivalent for cutting out the hole in IRD (Optional but preferred)
• Drill and 1/8 drill bit (Your Dremel tool might be able to do the job of this)

OK, now that you have everything that you need, were ready to begin. First, remove cover of the 501/508. There should be 2 screws on the back of the IRD (receiver). Remove them, and slide cover towards the rear of the IRD. You should now be able to see the inside.

The first thing we are going to do is remove the power cord for the Hard Drive, (top right arrow, above) and tuck it out of the way inside the Hard Drive bracket. (top left arrow above) Next remove the Hard Drive cable,(lower right arrow above)and move it out of the way.

Now you should have a good clear view of the board as in the picture below. I have also outlined areas of importance for this procedure, and area's of general interest. For close ups, put mouse over that area and click.

Ok, from here you are going to find a good location on the back (preferred)of the IRD to cut your access hole for the LPT connector. It is always recommended that you remove the motherboard before doing this to prevent any metal shavings from lodging themselves somewhere that might short the IRD when you turn it back on. But it is a lengthy process on the 501/508, and if you can find a way do it without removing board, and be certain that there are no shavings left behind, go for it. Below is the location that I chose for my 508. I also highlighted the REG ID and IRD number for those that don't know where to find it. This location of info is pretty much the same on all IRD's.

Now that you have your LPT connector access hole ready, we will move on to the LPT connector itself. Get one of the Male 25 pin LPT connectors, and take a look at the back side with the solder poles. If you look close, you can see they are numbered. In the picture below, I have numbered the 4 corners for you.

You can also see above that I have connected pins 18 thru 25 together. The easiest way to do this, is take a piece of wire(I use one end of a Resister) bend the ends down so that they fit inside pin 18 and 25. Then solder them in. Follow up by soldering each post in between them, making sure to get good contact with inserted wire, until it looks like the picture above. You can do all 3 LPT connectors right now, or do the other 2 later.

Next we will solder our resisters into place. First I heat the posts, and then fill them with solder. I do this for posts 2, 3, 4, 5, and 13. I then trim my ends of the resisters so that they are just above the LPT posts when inserted into place. Now reheat the posts, and slide the resisters into place. See picture below.

Notice in the picture above, that the resisters do not all face the same direction. This is not a mistake. It does not matter which way the resisters are installed. They work fine in either direction. The last thing to do is heat the ends of the resisters the wires will connect to, and apply some solder to them.

Now lets move on to the ribbon cable, or whatever it is you decided to use. Trim the wire to a length that will reach from the JTAG pads to the LPT connector location. If using ribbon cable, use the razor blade to separate the ends. Give yourself at least 1 1/2 inches of separation. Now strip the insulation back at both ends about 1/2 inch. Twist the braided wire ends nice and tight, then tin each one by heating the wire ends, and applying solder to them. This will make the ends firm, and easier to work with. It will also make for better connections to our solder points. See picture below for what we have done so far with the wire ends.

As you can see in the picture, the ends of the wire are nice and tight, and fully soldered. Now take your razor blade, or cutters, and trim the ends of end of wire to about a 1/4 inch.

We are now ready to install one end of wire into the JTAG pads on the board. To do this all you need do is heat the pads, and insert the wire ends into the holes after the solder pads turn liquid. Remove the solder iron, and hold the wire in place for about 2-3 seconds and it will be securely soldered in place. As you progress with the rest of the wires, you may want to use needle nose pliers to hold the wires to insert them, as the area you are working with is rather tight. See picture below for completed view.

I have also labeled the picture above with the locations of where the wires will be connected to the resisters at the LPT port. Now would be a good time to pull out that magnifying glass, and take a good look at the connections

We are almost done now. All that is left is to install the LPT connector, and connect wires to LPT connector. I choose to rivet my LPT connector to the IRD case, but you may choose to use screws, or nut and bolt with small machine screws. Any way you do it, make sure that it is firmly secured. Last thing you want to do is pull it from the case and rip wires, when removing JTAG connector on future read/write operations. Below is a picture of the installed LPT connector.

With the LPT connector now in place, we can now connect our wires to the resisters on the inside of case. Simply heat the ends where we applied the solder, and lay the wires along side and they will join together. Make sure that you connect them to the proper resister. refer back to the JTAG post picture. See picture below for completed View.

The last thing to do for our JTAG is to connect our ground wire. Prepare the wire the same way we did the others. Solder one end to the LPT connector where we joined posts 18 thru 25, and the other end to a good case ground screw. If you look at the picture above, there is an arrow that points in the direction where you will find a good grounding screw on the power supply board to connect to.

Now all you need to do is to install a ground wire for pad 1 of JTAG port, and make your adaptor cable for connecting IRD to computer. Lets start with the ground wire.

Locate pad 1 on the JTAG port located on underside of IRD. (pictured below). Heat the pad, and add some addition solder to it. Get a piece of wire that will reach easily from the front to back of IRD, strip about a 1/4 inch of the insulation off at one end, and about 1/2 inch at the other. We will use the 1/4 inch end at pad 1. Feed the wire through from the inside of IRD to the JTAG port area. Put a 90 degree bend in the stripped portion of wire, heat pad, and connect wire to pad 1.

Now just run the other end of wire through opening in the rear of IRD. (Pictured below) Now when you are going to JTAG this IRD, all you have to do is connect wire to screw in rear of case. (See picture below) There are many ways to do this wire, switches, contacts, or any creative way you see fit. This is just a basic hook-up.

Ok, last item. Take the last 2 25 pin connectors (1 male, 1 Female) and connect them together by soldering ribbon wire between the 2 of them. Just make it a straight through. Meaning, just connect post 2 to 2, 3 to 3, 4 to 4, 5 to 5, and 13 to 13. If you did not join posts 18-25 earlier, make sure you do them now. Finally, below is a picture with the optional covers on the ends.

Now for a quick run through of Jtaging the IRD. You can try short cuts if you like, but what I am going to list is the most optimal way.

• Turn Computer off
• Connect your Ground wire on the rear of the IRD
• Connect IRD to Computer with cable you made
• Boot your computer
• Go to directory where yo have Jkeys located
• Plug in IRD
• Run Jkeys
• IRD info should come up on screen. If not, stop here. You have a problem somewhere. Go back and check all connections and solder joints. Also check for cross solder joints. If all still seems correct, try a different computer, maybe even 2. Some computer LPT ports just will not run good with simple JTAG operations.
• If you see your info, you are good to go.
• To gain access to the TSOPS, click on Flash Programming
• A pop up screen will come up, it basically says to unplug IRD, plug back in, and then hit the ok button within 3 seconds. I have had better luck unplugging, clicking ok, and then plugging back in within 1 second of hitting the OK button. Do what works best for you.
• Now you should be in the Flash Programming Area. In the extreme lower right, it should say "Trap Functional" if all is good.
• From here, you can choose either TSOP (on left) to read in whole, or in part. On the right is where you can choose to read, erase, or program (write). The drop down box above those options is where you can choose "FULL" or an SA locations for the options listed.
• If you plan to do any writing to the TSOP, whether Full write, or to an SA area, you must erase first. I erase at least 3 times before I write. Erasing a full TSOP takes me about 30 seconds. Writing a full TSOP takes me about 27 minutes.
• To write, first select the Flash you want to work with on the left.( Either Flash 1, Or Flash 2). Then on the top right, pick Full, or SA area that you want write. (Now erase) then program (write).
• To read and save, do the same thing, except NO ERASE.
• After you have done your reading and writing, close that window, and you will be back to the first screen.
• If you want to work with EEprom, click EEprom Programming. Now you see to options on the left...SAVE and PROGRAM.
• To save, just click and it will read EEprom, and ask you for name and place to save the file to.
• To Program (write), just click and it will ask you what file to write. There is no erase for EEprom because it is not necessary.

Dudeman has made a good walk thru that u can look at. It is posted in the Dish forum, under FAQ's sub forum at DishWarriors. If you have any trouble with this operation, post your question at Dishwarriors, and I will be more than happy to help, and or clarify anything you have read here.

Also, if you find anything in this file that is incorrect, or misleading, you can PM me at DW, and I will take care of it. Just click on the link below to go there.

WROTE BY Chas1962

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